You might have heard that Madonna has a thing for Portugal, so much so that she moved there. While Mads flies the A-list flag, the country has in fact drawn many a celeb to its shores. And there’s a little pocket where they all love to hang – Comporta, around a 90-minute drive south of Lisbon. 
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Why Comporta, you ask?

Well, for starters, it’s a rather nice place. There’s bluer than blue water, whiter than white sand, and green rice paddies and pine forests that seemingly go for days. It’s also a chic spot that attracts in-the-know designers and architects, meaning it has a modern creative edge that isn’t so common in other small beach towns in Portugal.
 
But the real attraction for these highbrow folk is Comporta’s relative seclusion. While backpackers and day-trippers can load onto a bus and descend on the Algarve’s beaches, such as Lagos, en masse, Comporta is essentially cut off from the public transport network. Only the most committed travellers will take a train from Lisbon to Setúbal, then a ferry to Tróia, then one of the somewhat infrequent bus services to Comporta. Your best bet is to drive.
 
If you make the effort, Comporta is stunning, and you can horse ride on the beach, take a yoga class amid the rice fields, and visit a dilapidated pier on stilts at Carrasqueira, which is one of the last surviving jetties of its type in Europe and a favourite amongst photographers.
 
For more, read my article about Comporta in volume 8 of Embraer’s Advantage magazine. 

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​I’m not much of a souvenir collector when I travel, but something I’ve found to become a cherished keepsake is jewellery. It’s lighter on the suitcase compared to furniture or ceramics, and much less useless than a snow dome or bottle opener (I’ve found zero of the former and just one of the latter sufficient for everyday living). 
 
So, to let you in on Portugal’s precious treasures, I’ll introduce you to the wonderful world of filigree. 

​But first up, what is filigree? 
 
Filigree jewellery (or filigree jewelry for those unaccustomed to my Aussie spelling) consists of quilled threads of super-fine gold or silver, typically fashioned into delicate pendants, earrings and rings that resemble a glittery lace. 
 
At this point I should mention that filigree is not a Portuguese invention as such – the art dates back many moons and then some. There are claims that filigree was first found on the Iberian Peninsula (the area where Portugal now stands), but it was a likely import. A number of Portuguese people I’ve spoken to say filigree emerged with the Phoenicians. This seems plausible, given the people of this ancient Middle Eastern-born civilisation fronted up in what we now know as Portugal around the ninth century BC. They are renowned as skilled seafaring traders, so jewellery was almost certainly part of their portfolio. 
 
In these globetrotting hands, filigree was bestowed a geographical scattering and dropped roots in many cultures. This includes India and other parts of Asia, and countries across Europe, including Italy, France and Germany. Designs then evolved in each country and region, and this is where my focus will turn to Portugal. 

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​Portuguese filigree
 
Despite not being the original or exclusive purveyors of filigree, the Portuguese took up the craft with gusto. Filigree (filigrana in Portuguese) has since become one of the country’s most symbolic art forms. 
 
Portuguese filigree can largely be traced to the north of the country. If you start paying attention to the jewellery shops around Portugal (and look at prints on various knick-knacks), you’ll notice a lot of protuberant hearts with their pointy tip slightly skewed to one side. This is called the heart of Viana (or curação de Viana) and is the most traditional filigree design in Portugal. It’s a symbol of the Minho region in the north and references the town of Viana do Castelo. The heart shape is attributed to the Roman Catholic devotion to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. 
 
Layers of chunky gold filigree are still part of Viana’s local folklore and are worn during processions and festivals, such as the Romaria de Nossa Senhora d’Agonia (Festival of Our Lady in Sorrow) in August. The pieces are proudly passed down through families. 

As time went on, the town of Gondomar, 15 kilometres east of Porto, became Portugal’s filigree hub (and jewellery-making hub in general). Gondomar’s Rua de Ourives (Silversmith Street) is a nod to a tradition that carries through to the present day. Here, the jewellery-making trade is passed from generation to generation, and I’m told by locals that kids growing up the area used to head to the workshops after school; it was their version of playing in the street (and incidentally/strategically kept them off the streets).
 
Another place key to filigree’s origins is the goldsmithing town of Travassos east of Braga, where you can visit the small gold museum Museu do Ouro (call or email ahead to check opening times). 

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​How is filigree made?
 
Having witnessed the making of a Viana heart at the ARPA workshop in Gondomar, here’s an outline of the heart and soul that goes into its creation.
 
The artisan starts with a piece of gold or silver wire and wraps it around a mould of the desired shape, such as a heart. A few anchor points may also be added through the middle using this ‘thick’ wire. Everything is soldered into position using a flame in much the same way you’d crisp up a crème brûlée. 

​Buying filigree in Portugal
 
When in Portugal, certainly consider picking up a filigree souvenir along with your Tram 28 postcard and sardine tea towel. In doing so, you’ll help support and industry and art form that is an important aspect of Portuguese culture. You’ll also have a pretty, wearable reminder of your trip. 
 
To get an appreciation of the skill involved in filigree making and to better understand the historical significance to Portugal, I’d recommend organising a tour to a workshop along the Rota da Filigrana (Filigree Route). You can book visits in Gondomar on the Gondomar tourism website (or call or send them an email for more info, yes they speak English). 
 
If you’re looking to purchase a piece, you’ll find filigree in jewellery stores around the country. Of course, there are a few fakes (if you see a Viana heart for €5 in a trinket store, buyer beware), but most reputable-looking jewellery stores will have the real deal. Ask a few questions about where and how the piece was made – after reading the above you should be armed with some knowledge :-)

​If you follow me on social media (which you should, *wink wink* – here’s my Insta and Facebook), you may have seen my article flying around on Virgin Australia planes this month in the Voyeur inflight magazine. It’s about how Porto’s food scene is evolving, while simultaneously staying the same. Let me explain.
 
Essentially, the city’s menu is getting a shake up as a growing number of tourists and an increasingly well-travelled pool of locals ping pong supply and demand. But centuries’ worth of tradition doesn’t evaporate overnight, meaning the new kids on the block are slotting between tried and true examples of regional cuisine (for now, anyway).
 
When considering the food scene in Porto, it may raise the question, what exactly is northern Portuguese cuisine? So I thought I’d drill it down a bit more since everyone loves reading about food, right? (surely not just me?)

I’ve also decided to focus on the north in this post as I think it provides some of the most obvious examples of regionally defined gastronomy. Lisbon, as the capital, is an unsurprisingly diverse hub that pulls mixed influence from regional and international spokes, and the major hotspots in the Algarve are quite cosmopolitan given the area’s high concentration of expats. That said, I’d welcome comments below to highlight foods you think resonate with the various areas of Portugal. (Choco frito in Setúbal, just outside Lisbon, springs to mind. Is there really a better place to order a mound of fried cuttlefish?) 
 
This post is also in part a tribute to the late Anthony Bourdain, who held northern Portuguese cuisine in high regard and filmed one of his first TV shows in Porto. In Bourdain style, I won’t focus on tourist-guide gloss, but will get to the gritty core, because that’s the best peek into a country’s soul. Some might get stomach flips reading the list below, but I’d encourage you to take your Portuguese experience up a notch and give these things a go. On a world scale, the gross spectrum is relative after all. 

Everything except the squeal
 
Northern Portugal is typically a working class area and hence built its gastronomy on waste not-want not, keep-you-powered-all-day sustenance. This includes tripe stew called tripas à moda do Porto, which bestowed the people of Porto the proud nickname tripeiros. (There are even tripe brotherhoods in these parts. Tripe is serious game.) Offal also sneaks its way into many other dishes, as below. 

Moelas
 
Moela means gizzard … but what exactly is a gizzard? Well, perhaps best not to ask, but it’s part of a chicken’s digestive system. The Portuguese love to stew up a pot of slightly rubbery moelas and eat them with hunks of bread as a snack or petisco. Similar to tripas à moda do Porto, the sauce is a saving grace if matter overcomes your mind. Simply soak your bread in the delicious liquid then gloat about your courageous order.

Tripas enfarinhadas
 
Here’s another popular snack – fried pigs’ intestines stuffed with cornmeal, cumin and pepper. I’ve given enfarinhadas a shot a few times and can’t say I’ve come around to them, despite their appetising crispy appearance (which roped me in the first time). Maybe it’s because my friend once drew parallel to a baby's finger and I can’t quite stamp out the image.

Feijoada à Transmontana 
 
Trás-os-Montes is a region in the top right corner of Portugal and is considered the original purveyor of feijoada. Feijoada is essentially a bean stew, and the types of beans and supporting ingredients vary slightly between regions across the country. 
 
The transmontana style uses red beans, sausage, cabbage and other things that follow track to the above (i.e. don’t ask). It’s good comfort food on a chilly day. 
 
Polvo 
 
A big gooey octopus lends itself particularly well to Portuguese cuisine. You’ll see supersized tentacles charred on a grill, sliced in salad and roasted to perfection (polvo assado). This staple is common across coastal regions of Portugal, but it’s pretty much my favourite thing so I thought it warranted a mention. In particular there’s a little fishing village in northern Portugal I wanted to highlight called Angeiras (20 kilometres north of Porto). This is where many of Porto’s chefs go to buy tentacle tangles for their kitchens. The village is tiny and cute and is a working example of Portugal’s lifelong ties to the sea. 

[Insider tip: I’ve asked many a Portuguese mãe (mother) their secret to tender and juicy polvo. Freezing before cooking is the critical step.]

​Francesinha 
 
I’ve mentioned the Francesinha many times in my writing (shown here in the header image), because when it comes to signature food, this is about as Porto as it gets. Cautious eaters will be pleased to know all ingredients are relatively mainstream, but rather, the way they’re put together is a little outlandish. We’re talking stacks of sausage, ham, steak and chouriço layered between white bread wrapped in a cheese blanket, topped with an egg, then drowned in beer and tomato sauce. Side it with fries, chase it with beer, and you’re good to go. For numerous hours. 

Pastéis de Chaves
 
There’s nothing untoward about these parcels of yum either, they’re just good old-fashioned flaky pastries filled with minced meat. Pastéis de Chaves are a protected food product in Portugal, meaning only producers in the northern city of Chaves can apply the name. (This is much like the Portuguese having dibs on the term port wine or port. Everyone outside Portugal makes ‘fortified’ wine.) 
 
If you’re keen and have a car you can drive the 1.5 hours from Porto to Chaves and eat from the source, or you can buy the pastries in Porto at A Loja dos Pastéis de Chaves. This crowd plays to the rules by making their products in Chaves then driving them to Porto. They also experiment with different fillings, so you can buy a chocolate-filled pastry for dessert. 

Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá
 
Bacalhau (dried codfish) is prolific across Portugal, but this particular variant was devised by one of Porto’s resident fisherman. He used to live in the house now occupied by Guest House Douro. When walking along Ribeira, look up and you’ll see a tiny plaque in his honour. 
 
The Gomes de Sá dish is made with potato, onion, eggs and olives. 
 
Sarrabulho
 
Righto, let’s be done with it, sarrabulho is thick goop made with pigs’ blood. This is a particular classic in the northern Minho region and you might see it as arroz de sarrabulho (made with rice) and papas de sarrabulho (more like a chunky, meaty soup). This one won't win any beauty awards, but if you close your eyes, it’s actually not bad. 

Right about now you might be thinking to scratch northern Portugal off your holiday list. But fear not, there’s food to cater for all levels of gastronomic adventure. (My Voyeur article will reassure you there’s pork sandwiches, ham hocks and super fresh fish in the mix, among other things.)
 
Let’s also not forget northern Portugal gifted the world with port and is the guardian of refreshing green wine (vinho verde). On a technicality I realise you don’t eat wine, but you should get these potions down your hatch at some point on your trip (if not every day). 
 
There are also a number of Michelin star restaurants in Portugal's northern reaches that add finesse to the region’s traditional cuisine. In 2018, this includes The Yeatman, Pedro Lemos, Casa de Chá da Boa Nova, Antiqvvm and Largo do Paço. 
 
And wherever you go in Portugal there’s always pastéis de nata. You can never eat too many of those. 
 
Browse my articles page for more food ideas and things to do in Porto.

Having seen all the seasons pass in Portugal, I thought I’d give an overview of what to see and expect in the country as the calendar ticks over. 
 
While the ideal timing of your visit will depend on personal preferences and schedules, as someone who travels a lot, I’ve come to realise it can be nice to travel at any time of the year, even if it’s not considered ‘the’ time to go. Places can change so much month-to-month, and what you experience in June can be completely different to November. You could visit the same city in each season and have a completely different holiday. 
 
Summer is a good time to visit Portugal if you want to enjoy long, sunny days and the reassurance that attractions will be open. Of course this is also the busiest time so you’ll have to contend with larger crowds and higher prices. If throngs of people make you squirm or you’re the type who fancies breaking away from the pack, there are some lovely sights to be seen throughout the year, as you’ll soon discover.  

​THE SEASONS IN PORTUGAL
 
Portugal’s seasons are determined using the astronomical method, meaning they generally start somewhere between the 20th and 23rd day of the month (unlike Australia for example, where the start of the season is meteorological and is always marked by the 1st of the month). 
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​SUMMER
 
Towns and cities across Portugal have real energy in summer. The streets are alive and the sun is nearly always out. Sardines are at their plumpest and free music festivals pop up in the parks. 
 
Summer in Lisbon: when the city bursts to life
 
I particularly love Lisbon in summer - it’s such a happy place and the colours of the buildings really shine. I’m not the only one who fancies Lisbon (or Porto, or the Algarve) in summer though and the warmer months cue an onslaught of tourists. I swear it’s like I wake up one day in June and think, where the flip did all these people come from?

Summer in Porto: maybe not as balmy as you’d think
 
Porto usually has a few hot weeks in summer, then becomes more temperate. Fog is common throughout the season, so clear skies can tag-team total whiteouts. Personally, I wouldn’t ever describe Porto as a summery destination and would rarely go out at night without a light cardigan or scarf in my bag (but remember I am a Queenslander, which in Australia is aptly nicknamed the sunshine state). 
 
The ocean in northern Portugal is always Bigglesworth-freezing and you’d do well with a wetsuit year round. The water gets (slightly) warmer as you head south though. Outside Lisbon, beach towns like Cascais pump through summer, with water sports a popular pastime, and the Algarve is Portugal’s lauded beach region. 
 
Beaches in the Algarve: all the summer feels
 
The Algarve is usually what people are thinking of when they reference Portugal as a tropical beach destination. Places like Lagos and Praia da Rocha (near Portimão) know how to rock a summery vibe and amass a festive atmosphere as the temperatures rise. If you love to party, summer’s your girl in these parts. 

Hot summers in the Douro Valley
 
If heading upriver from Porto to the Douro Valley in summer, be prepared for scorching heat. The Douro region is warmer than the city and temperatures can hit the 40s. You can (and should) still visit – just be prepared. 
 
Visiting the Azores in summer
 
The Azores islands are great to visit in summer, but have fickle weather, so it’s best to bring a jacket regardless of the time of year. The highlight here is the hydrangeas that line the roads and cut through paddocks. Summer in the Azores is magic.

​Watch the video I made on São Miguel Island in July (you can see the sky shifted between grey and blue, but it was stunning regardless).
 
Summer festivals in Portugal
 
The little town of Águeda in northern Portugal holds its AgitÁgueda art festival in July, better known to some as Portugal’s umbrella festival. It’s fun and colourful and worth a visit. Medieval festivals such as Viagem Medieval a Santa Maria da Feira also happen around this time. Then there are a couple of next-level festivities, as below.

Party up at Festas dos Santos Populares
 
Discerning travellers should be aware there are mad-crazy-super-fun festivals held in Lisbon and Porto each year to celebrate the city saints. Festas do Santo António happen in Lisbon throughout June with the main event on the 12th, and Festa de São João in Porto goes nuts on June 23rd. Accommodation on these nights will be at a premium, but if you snag a room, the festivals could easily be the highlight of your trip. The cities are so packed it’s like a giant truck full of party people tipped over and rolled down the streets. What could be more fun than that? (Read my contribution to Lonely Planet about the São João festival in Porto.)

AUTUMN/FALL
 
Autumn in Portugal, when everything is calm
 
Despite being a diehard summer fan, I love Portugal in autumn. The streets are quieter, the red and orange trees are beautiful, and it’s a different landscape to what you normally see on brochures (in a good way). Once the tourists traipse home, it’s just the locals and alley cats left wandering the streets, making everything feel peaceful. You can also stroll into major attractions without risking selfie stick-to-eyeball collisions.

Cherry blossoms in Portugal
 
Most people know you can see cherry blossoms in Japan, but did you know Portugal has cherry blossoms too? You’ll find them in the area of Serra da Gardunha in central Portugal, with Fundão usually considered the floral hub. A dedicated train ride is coordinated each year by Portugal’s main train company cp.pt to take you past the blossoms. This is called Cerejeiras em Flor de Comboio. The trips usually run for around three weeks in March or April, depending on the season. There are also lots of almond trees across Portugal, which are similarly enchanting once their flowers rouse. 
 
When the mountains and valleys turn to gold
 
The Douro Valley exists in a constant state of beauty, but in autumn it’s spectacular. Crunchy gold hillsides are laced with auburn and red and the odd pop of green. The mountains in the central region are also beautiful. Places like Serra da Estrela and Serra de São Mamede will make you go wow with warm, earthy colours. Have a look at my photos of Loriga, Manteigas and Seia. 

Harvest season in Portugal
 
Portugal is a jam of wine producing regions, so harvest season is an important time of year. Grape harvest times vary by location and from year-to-year, but usually occur around September or late August. Select wineries will let you get in on the action with some foot-stomping. 
 
Portugal’s autumn festivals
 
Those with a sweet tooth should head to Óbidos in April for the chocolate festival, while bird-lovers can migrate to Sagres on Portugal’s southern tip for the birdwatching festival. 
 
WINTER
 
Yes, it snows in Portugal
 
Most people wouldn’t think of Portugal as a white winter wonderland, but yep, it snows. While not an optimal ski destination compared to other places in Europe, it’s possible to carve the slopes in Serra da Estrela, where you’ll find Portugal’s highest peak. It sometimes also snows in the Peneda-Gerês National Park. 
 
Even though Portugal isn’t a hotspot for snow sports, the landscape is beautiful and quite special, perhaps because snow isn’t something normally associated with the country. Watch the video I made in Serra da Estrela and Serra de São Mamede to see some of the snow (and autumn leaves). This was actually shot in November – the snowflakes can occasionally tumble early. I’ve also got some pics of Lagoa Comprida blanked in snow. 

Doors might close in winter
 
One thing to keep in mind if visiting Portugal in winter is that some attractions, particularly wineries, close over the colder months. Not all tours will operate over winter or will only run on demand, so call or email ahead to check schedules. 
 
Other places like churches, monuments and well-known cafés are fabulous to visit in winter as queues pretty much disappear. The spindly trees are also super cool, particularly in Porto where the grey-on-grey city feels a bit Hogwarty.
 
How cold is Portugal in winter? Flippin’ freezing.
 
Some people don’t believe me, but Portugal gets ridiculously cold. In fact, it’s where I’ve felt the coldest in my life … which doesn’t necessarily hold much weight given I grew up in northern Australia. But let me back that up with the sentiments of people from Finland, Estonia, the UK, Italy and Iceland who have told me the same thing. 
 
While the temperatures themselves don’t rival the sub-zero-then-some chilliness of other parts of Europe, Portugal ain’t got no central heating. Unless you’re in a modern establishment (of which there are few, because many of Portugal’s towns and cities have been around for dinosaur years), you’ll likely be faced with single-pane windows, no insulation and maybe a draught under the door. Outside it will probably be raining with a bit of wind to punish your sins. Freestanding heaters provide minor relief to the sole body part in their immediate range, while most heat dissipates into thin air.

Cold humidity was a new concept to me when I came to Portugal (humidity in Australia is warm), and it's not a concept I’ve become fond of, as it generally means feeling cold and damp. This joyous sensation is most typical to the northern and central regions of Portugal.

​I realise I just made winter sound horrendous, but keep reading, it’s not all bad. 

Record-breaking waves in Nazaré
 
One place that should be on your winter list is Nazaré. Nazaré is not only a traditional seaside village with lots of culture and awesome views, it’s also where the biggest wave in the world has been surfed. Wave heights fluctuate, but generally ramp up around December. Watch this video of my fellow Aussie Jamie Mitchell tackling a Nazaré monster.
 
Beeline to the islands or southern beaches in winter
 
If you’re not keen on the cold, you can still snavel some warmth in offshore and southern Portugal in winter. The Algarve and the island of Madeira are popular getaways for Brits and those from other parts of Europe to escape the dreary winters of their home countries. 
 
Winter events in Portugal
 
To further soften the winter blues I should mention that Portugal is great at events. Places like Porto and Lisbon have a wonderful atmosphere around Christmas-time, with lights, art installations, skating rinks and markets dotted across the cities. The smell of chestnuts drifts down the streets and you can drink warming tawny port to your heart’s content. The island of Madeira is known to throw a rollicking New Year’s Eve party, and there are Carnival festivities across the country in February. 
 
Public transport timetables
 
Something to note is that public transport timetables (and other schedules) often change between summer and winter. Usually you can check these online.
 
SPRING
 
When all the pretties bloom
 
As in many countries, the flowers in Portugal pop open in spring and you’ll find these colourful beauties everywhere. I recall a trip to Albufeira in springtime when the flowers were just delightful. Goodness knows how many photos I took. Madeira’s florals are also incredible and the island holds a flower festival to celebrate them just after Easter. 

Hiking in Portugal
 
National and natural parks like Peneda-Gerês, Sintra-Cascais and Serra da Estrela are great for hiking in spring given the warm temperatures and more settled weather. The Rota Vicentina hiking trails are also fabulous in spring and autumn. 
 
Cute small towns and cities
 
Places like Ponte de Lima, Amarante, Piódão, Aveiro (including Praia da Costa Nova), Soajo, Tomar and Braga are also lovely in springtime, and can be less busy than the summer months. In fact, this is true for most of the country, so spring tends to be a great time to visit. 

Spring events in Portugal
 
In Porto, spring draws one of Europe’s biggest music festivals, Primavera Sound, and in May, Coimbra roars to life with student parties. May also sees one of the world’s most famous Christian pilgrimages take place in Fátima. 
 
If you’ve got any tips or events you want to add, post a comment below. 

I briefly touched on Pombaline architecture in my post Who are they? Famous names on the streets of Portugal. Here I mention the style is named after a chap by the name of Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, who became known as the Marquês de Pombal.
 
The Marquês de Pombal is credited for his leadership role during the rebuilding of Lisbon following the 1755 earthquake (and ensuing fire and tsunami). At the time he was the Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, but quickly took the leading reigns after the king at the time José I, essentially curled up in a ball and prayed for it all to be over (or so the story goes). Pombal subsequently became the prime minister of Portugal.

​Post-disaster, Lisbon was all but levelled, and while the precise death toll is sketchy, it’s fair to say a decent whack of the population came to their final demise.
 
Pombal is famous for his order to ‘bury the dead and care for the living’, before gallantly setting out to rebuild the city.
 
The cityscape Pombal devised is particularly noteworthy as Lisbon became one of Europe’s first masterplanned cities and also one of the first cities to implement earthquake-proof building design.
 
You’ll note Lisbon’s baixa, or downtown area (sometimes called Baixa Pombalina), is rather orderly, with a wide central thoroughfare (Rua Augusta) and other broad, grid-like streets. These streets firstly facilitated movement and trade, and also meant that if the buildings were to collapse again, they wouldn’t topple on top of one another. Compare the neat streets of the baixa to the narrow, twisted laneways of Alfama – an area that was spared during the earthquake – and you can see what a jumbled maze Lisbon could’ve been had the earthquake not prompted an involuntary redesign.

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​You can see examples of earthquake-proof wall structures called caging in some shops around the city, such as JANS Concept in Bairro Alto (characterised by a flexible wooden frame that resembles an asterisk set within the wall structure), and the domed ceilings in places like the RIB restaurant in Praça do Comércio (the food is good here by the way). Most buildings also have fire walls between them.
 
The building process was considered ingenious at the time too, as wall structures were pre-manufactured off site.
 
Another clever element of anti-seismic design was implemented underground. Wooden poles were driven into the riverbed to reinforce the city, given Lisbon’s downtown area ‘floats’ over water.
 
The Pombaline buildings themselves were then restricted in height. Again, this posed less risk in the event of a tumble, and they allow light to penetrate the city – the light Lisbon is so famous for. Pombal also intended for buildings to multi-function as private dwellings on the upper floors with retail space on the ground level, similar to today, and prioritised public space. Façades were created in a simple neoclassical style and you’ll notice not many have azulejo tiles like other cities such as Porto (there was the need for a speedy and cost-effective rebuild, so it wasn’t the time nor place to be getting too fancy, but there was also a focus on elegance).
 
Pombal is honoured as one of the figures enshrined on the pillars of the Arco Rua Augusta – the magnificent arch that serves as the gateway to the city (you can climb this for a city view if you wish – I love how the statues' feet look so big up close :-)).

​I should note that Pombal was primarily the overseer of the construction, so credit should also be given to his architectural team. Key members were General Manuel de Maia (who was 83 at the time) and military engineers Captain Eugénio dos Santos and Lieutenant Colonel Carlos Mardel. 

Feeling suitably minted, King Manuel decided to put his country’s spice taxes to good use by constructing some spiffy buildings that flaunted Portugal’s maritime prowess. These buildings would later be described as Manueline.
 
Now, what actually constitutes Manueline-style architecture isn’t particularly clear cut. Some scholars claim the Portuguese drew influence from their international jaunts to exotic lands like India, while others say it’s a load of claptrap given many of the architects never actually set foot in India themselves.
 
It’s generally agreed however that Manueline buildings incorporate maritime and religious references, plus a smattering of plants and animals. Hence it’s common to see lengths of seaweed and rope twisted around shields, crosses and fish. 

The strongest identifiers of Manueline style are the armillery sphere and Military Order of Christ cross, which were close to King Manuel (and Portugal’s) heart. The armillery sphere – a navigational instrument – was the king’s emblem and is also the yellow object you see on the Portuguese flag. The cross is the big red symbol stamped on the sails of Portugal’s ships. (Once you start looking out for the sphere and the cross you’ll see them all over Portugal.)

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​Two good examples of Manueleine style are the Mosteiro dos Jerónimos (top image) and Torre de Belém (below) just outside Lisbon’s city centre in Belém (both are UNESCO World Heritage listed).
 
The torre (meaning tower) was constructed by Manuel to serve a military function at the mouth of the Tagus River, while the mosteiro (monastery) was more about showing off.
 
Given the monastery was constructed on *ahem* Portuguese time, King Manuel couldn’t hang on long enough to see its completion 100 years after he’d commissioned it, so he’s honoured with a statue of his stately self by the main portal. He’s also buried inside.
 
Other strong examples of Manueline architecture can be seen in the Convento Cristo in Tomar and Igreja de Jesus in Setúbal.
 
Unfortunately there aren’t many remaining examples of Manueline architecture in Lisbon’s city centre following the city’s devastating earthquake of 1755 ... which provides a nice segue to my next post. Stay tuned.

Last month I had a story published in the Singapore Airlines inflight magazine, SilverKris, about Portugal’s table wines. You see, everyone seems to know about port (which you may remember from my post Interesting facts about Portugal is exclusive to Portugal, much like Champagne is exclusive to its namesake region in France). But Portugal isn’t just good at port, and has been making mighty fine table wines as far back as Roman times. 

While the Douro Valley is starting to make a name for itself in mainstream wine circles, the whole of Portugal is actually a patchwork of wine regions producing very diverse wines. The country has over 300 grape varieties in active production and is a master of blended wine, so you’ll rarely see single varietals such as shiraz or chardonnay. Think of Portuguese wines to be like highly sophisticated grape cocktails. 

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​Portuguese wine – good, cheap and underrated 
 
Wine is a central facet of Portuguese culture. Menus of the day nearly always include wine, and it’s nothing to have a glass or two at lunch or dinner, plus a port aperitif or nightcap. Wine quality in Portugal averages on excellent, and better still, is dirt cheap. If you start your budget around €4 per bottle when browsing the supermarket shelves you’ll rarely be disappointed, and if you spend upward of €10 you’re top shelf ;-) Don’t be afraid to order the house wine in a restaurant either, as you’ll find it’s nearly always very drinkable.
 
So why does Portuguese wine live under a veil of secrecy, particularly outside Europe? I think it’s because the Portuguese are quiet achievers. They tinker away at their craft without much need for external validation … and if I can make a broad-brush statement, they aren’t always the savviest marketers. Port wine gained its foothold on the international wine scene largely thanks to the British, and when Mateus shot to worldwide fame circa 1970 (counting Queen Elizabeth II and Jimi Hendrix among its fans), few would have realised the lightly sparkling rosé was Portuguese.
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But that’s why a trip to Portugal can be such a delight, as you’ll discover many amazing things you’d likely never heard of.
 
I’d recommend you have a read of my article in the January 2018 edition of SilverKris, which you can download from the app store, for more info about the story behind Portugal’s wines.
 
You can also find my pick of the best wine bars in Lisbon on the Singapore Airlines website. 

The best Portuguese wines to try
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In the meantime, I’ll give you my two cents' worth about which wines I think you should try in Portugal (or you know, try them all, whatever).
 
Personally, my favourite Portuguese wines come from the Dão and Alentejo regions. I’m also a big fan of the Douro Valley’s port – particularly white port in a Porto Tonico or port tonic (ask for it in any bar in Porto).
 
I’d also recommend hunting out some of the wines unique to Portugal, as listed below.
 
Colares wine
Colares sits in a windswept, sandy outpost by the Atlantic and is one of Portugal’s oldest wine growing regions. It preserves an almost 100-year-old custom designed to protect the purity of the Colares ramisco and malvasia grapevines, which were spared Europe’s devastating phylloxera attack in the 19th century. Under this system, select growers pool their grapes, which are then made 
into wine by a cooperative before being redistributed to the individual wineries for ageing.

Madeira wine
This wine is produced in an unusual way, as the grapes are grown on Madeira Island's steep slopes before being heated and oxidised (wine torture in most circles). The resulting wines can be sweet or dry. Madeira wine was used to toast America’s Declaration of Independence in 1776 as well as the inauguration of George Washington.
 
Vinho verde
Vinho verde (green wine) is exclusive to Portugal’s northern Minho region. It typically has a slight fizz and is consumed young. This isn’t always the case however and more and more wineries are starting to experiment with aged green wine. Although it seems like an oxymoron, green wine comes in white, red and rosé varieties.

Moscatel roxo
Another uniquely Portuguese wine is moscatel roxo, made with rare purple grapes that once neared extinction. You can visit the country’s oldest Moscatel de Setúbal producer, José Maria da Fonseca, 30 kilometres south of Lisbon to try this sweet purple wine. It’s similar to white port but has a distinctive taste.

Port wine
There are many port wine lodges in Porto (sometimes called port wine caves) offering tastings, so you’re spoilt for choice. (Technically the lodges are in Porto’s neighbouring city of Vila Nova de Gaia, but you can catch the yellow line metro or walk across the Dom Luís I bridge to reach Gaia.)
 
If you want to do a port wine tasting I’d recommend calling ahead to check when tours are on, as most cellars have set schedules but don’t always publish them online. Most of the time you’ll get onto someone who speaks English, but if you’re at a hotel, you can ask the reception to ring for you.
 
Tours usually include a guided cellar visit, and generally conclude with a tasting of three or four ports. Some include a video about the company’s history. Prices tend to differ between high and low season and tours often stop over winter or are run on demand. You can sometimes pay more to taste the highbrow vintages, but expect to pay between €6-12 for a standard tour. 
 
Here is where you'll find some of the best port tours in Porto
 
Ferreira: Antonia Ferreira was an incredible businesswoman who played a key role in developing Portugal’s port industry. You can learn about her story at Ferreira's port house.
 
Ramos Pinto: Adriano Ramos Pinto was a cheeky marketeer, who, like Ferreira, brings an interesting backstory to this winery. 
 
Taylor’s: This is one of the largest port houses and has a great audio guide with lots of detail about Portuguese wine history and the company’s port making processes. The facility is lovely for a post-tour drink, and from the garden you can sneak around the corner to sit on the terrace where there’s a wonderful view.
 
Porto Cruz: This is a modern facility that glows a funky blue at night. I listed this as one of my favourite bars in Porto in an article for Lonely Planet because the views from the rooftop terrace are amazing.

From the horse's mouth
​Here are a few parting thoughts about Portuguese wine from the experts.

Crash course in Portuguese wine terms
​(because the last thing you want is to sound like a doof at the bar, right?)
 
Vinho = wine
Tinto = red
Branco = white
Verde = green
Quinta = a country or wine estate
Saúde (health) or à nossa (to us) = cheers
Copo = glass
Garrafa = bottle ... yeah, go for the bottle ;-)
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Porto is known as Portugal's second city and is located in the north of the country. It has a very different look and feel to Lisbon – so you should definitely visit both – and is positioned on the bank of the beautiful Douro River (if you follow me on Instagram you may have seen my recent Insta story for @LonelyPlanet about the Douro :-)).

While Porto is traditionally an industrial city (hence the name, given Porto means 'port'), it is now an uber popular travel destination and has enough going on to keep you occupied for days (I'd recommend staying at least three days, if not more).

​This post will guide you to some of the best places to visit in Porto.

To cover the most important subject first – have a read of the article I wrote for Lonely Planet about the 10 best bars in Porto, then check out this article that lets you in on 11 secret gardens in Porto.

To discover things all a bit fancy schmancy, read the story I wrote for The CEO Magazine about luxury travel in Porto, and this one for Selector magazine about fine dining in Porto. 

On a shoe-string? Here are my budget travel tips. 

Following on from the above article, get to know the fascinating backstory behind the street art in Porto by reading this piece I wrote for the Wizz Air inflight magazine. This one was such a pleasure to write as the incredible urban art scene is my favourite aspect of the city. 

A little while ago I wrote a Porto city guide for Australia's Big Bus Tour & Travel Guide, where you can read my picks of things to see, do and eat in the city. I also put together an article about Where to stay and what to do in Porto* for The Telegraph. 

Make sure to also check out my post Interesting facts about Porto to get up to speed on the local trivia, and browse the Porto album in my photo gallery.

If you're looking for a place to bunk, there are plenty of hotels in Porto, including those I've reviewed for The Telegraph UK, plus more homely apartment rentals, which you can find on sites such as MyFriendsRoom.

Given the world-famous big waves of Nazaré are descending with the turn of the new year (they tend to start pumping from around November), I thought I'd repost an article I wrote about this delightful beach town, which has so much more than just monster surf.

Want to know where to eat, what to do and where to stay in Lisbon? Then read my post for the Peregrine Adventures blog (part of the Intrepid Group), which outlines five of Lisbon's coolest neighbourhoods.

In this article I give you the lowdown on Baixa, Chiado, Príncipe Real, Alfama and Belém.